Dermaplaning vs Chemical Exfoliation Which Is Better for Your Skin

Exfoliation is one of the most important steps in a healthy skincare routine. It removes dead skin cells, brightens the complexion, smoothens texture, and helps products absorb better. But with so many exfoliation methods available, the debate between dermaplaning and chemical exfoliation has become more intense than ever. Both are effective, but each works differently and benefits different skin concerns. So, which one is actually better for your skin? Let’s break it down.

Dermaplaning is a mechanical exfoliation technique performed using a sterile surgical blade. During the process, a professional gently glides the blade across the surface of the skin to remove dead skin cells, peach fuzz, and buildup. This creates an instant smooth and glowing finish. Because it removes fine facial hair, makeup also goes on flawlessly afterward. The treatment is painless, quick, and ideal for people looking for an immediate brightening effect.

Chemical exfoliation, on the other hand, relies on acids such as AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid), BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid), and PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acid) to dissolve dead skin cells. Instead of physically scraping the surface, these acids break down the bonds holding dull skin together. AHAs such as glycolic acid help with pigmentation and glow, BHAs like salicylic acid clean out pores and reduce acne, while PHAs offer gentle exfoliation suitable for sensitive skin.

Both methods target dullness and uneven texture, but their working style and results differ significantly. Dermaplaning produces immediate results—you’ll walk out with smoother, glowing skin right away. It’s great before special events, makeup applications, and photoshoots. This technique also helps skincare penetrate more effectively because the top barrier layer is removed. However, it must be done carefully and preferably by a trained professional to avoid cuts or irritation.

Chemical exfoliation provides long-term skin benefits. AHAs encourage collagen production and help fade pigmentation, BHAs detoxify pores and reduce blackheads, and PHAs hydrate while exfoliating. Chemical exfoliants work slowly but steadily, improving the overall skin health over time. They are available in multiple strengths, making them suitable for almost every skin type—from acne-prone to dry or mature skin.

When choosing between dermaplaning and chemical exfoliants, consider your skin type. Dermaplaning is great for normal, dry, and combination skin. It is especially helpful for those who have a lot of peach fuzz or dull, rough texture. However, it is not recommended for active acne because the blade can worsen inflammation or spread bacteria. People with very sensitive skin or conditions like rosacea should also approach dermaplaning carefully.

Chemical exfoliants are more versatile because different acids target different needs. Salicylic acid deeply cleans oily and acne-prone skin. Glycolic acid brightens sun-damaged or textured skin. Lactic acid is great for dry or sensitive skin because it exfoliates gently while adding hydration. PHAs provide the mildest exfoliation, making them ideal for people who react easily to stronger acids.

So, which exfoliation method is truly better? The answer depends entirely on your skin goals. If you want instant smoothness, hair removal, and a polished look, dermaplaning is the winner. If your goal is long-term improvement, smaller pores, fewer breakouts, and even tone, chemical exfoliation is the better choice. Many dermatologists recommend using both—but not at the same time. For example, dermaplane once a month and use mild chemical exfoliants weekly for consistent results.

No matter which method you choose, it’s essential to follow proper aftercare. Both treatments make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so applying sunscreen daily is a must. Also avoid using strong retinoids or scrubs right after dermaplaning or chemical exfoliation to prevent irritation.

In the end, dermaplaning and chemical exfoliation each have unique benefits. The best choice depends on your skin’s needs and lifestyle. With the right approach, either method can help you achieve smoother, brighter, and healthier skin.